These days, the most authoritative source of fashion information, Business of Fashion, sustained #rewiringfashion, a group of independent designers from all over the world that join to rethink how the fashion system could, and should, work. They are aware that we are in front of a system that does not generate creativity and that is not helping anyone, from designers to retailers, from consumers to the environment. For this reason, it is necessary to slow down to encourage inspiration and to find the magic of fashion again.
According to this group of designers, it is possible to reach this aim by modifying (or, sometimes, bringing back to the origins) some elements. First, the fashion calendar must be adjusted to fix the absurdity of the collections’ seasonality that arrive too early in the shops. Then, the date of the woman/man shows need to be repositioned and better distribute during the year especially to reduce travels and the shows have to recreate the desire before they arrive into the shops, letting the designers free to reinvent their presentations to involve their customers as they prefer. Also, the retails’ sales addiction on the collections must be stopped: Black Friday, Cyber Monday and mid-season sales have to wait for the end season sales in order not to ruin the brand’s value.
We were talking about rediscovering the magic of fashion, but when did we lose it? The answer is quite immediate as the phenomenon that broke the enchantment: see now buy now. The everything at once has been facilitated by the social networks that brought to a general, social feeling of inability to wait and an urgent desire to satisfy shortly our needs. For this reason, the brands made their products immediately available radically changing the spread of trends and deleting the concept of luxury that needs time to be realized. To know that we can have in a few hours what we see on the catwalk has removed the desire, reduced the exclusivity, and lost the magic.
Another factor that has contributed to weakening the fashion enchantment was the introduction of fashion bloggers who, exploiting the “me too” effect, convinced us to be like them and have incredibly shortened the distance between us and fashion.
The period that we are living in let us open the eyes and has convinced us that something has to change. The transformation of the fashion system will be useless if at the same time the mentality of all of us does not change.
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Cover image designed by Eleonora Falcone